single breed yarn

socks, Breed Specific Yarn

Seeking the perfect sock yarn, all natural and machine washable

Suffolk yarn, a sock to throw in the washing machine. Worn with the purl side to the world.

Suffolk sheep are the most common sheep in North America. They are widely raised for meat production. However, while all sheep must be sheared, it is difficult to obtain a quality Suffolk fleece. People raising Suffolk for meat production are not intending to also offer a pristine fleece for handspinning. The majority of Suffolk wool will be sold to the wool pool.  The difficulty in obtaining Suffolk fleece is unfortunate because the yarn has very interesting qualities. 

Suffolk is one of the Down breeds. The Down breeds are several distinct sheep breeds that have certain common characteristics. The Down breeds are Suffolk, Hampshire, Horned Dorset, Polled Dorset, Oxford, Southdown, Dorset Down, and Shropshire.  Cheviot is not a true Down breed but has the common characteristic, the wool is very difficult to felt. That means the yarn is difficult to felt. So one can create a sock yarn that is a non-superwash natural wool, but the yarn can be tossed in the washing machine. 

This also means that if you like to do needle felting or wet felting, do not use Suffolk or any of the other Down breeds. A woman visiting my booth at a fiber festival told of trying to felt wool for “days and days” with no change, to discover they were using 100% Oxford wool.  Oxford is a  Down breed, it does not felt well, or in this case, not at all. 

I knit a pair of boot socks in Suffolk yarn, DK weight. These are socks made for wearing with heavy shoes when I am on my feet all day. The first time I wore the socks, I realized that I could actually feel the purl bumps on the souls of my feet. When I got home I turned the socks inside out and from that point on, that is how I wore them. With the stockinette next to my skin and the purl bumps facing the world. This is a very comfortable sock.

When it came time to wash the socks, I dropped the socks into a lingerie bag and threw it into the machine with jeans, t-shirts and all the other dirty clothes. I did a normal wash cycle with cold water wash and rinse. When finished the socks were removed from the lingerie bag and draped on the drying rack. The socks did not felt at all. One still sees the perfect stitch definition.

I have been wearing (and washing) these socks for over two months. The socks have shown no sign of felting, they have pilled a bit, but that is to be expected.

Choosing a yarn, based on the properties of the fleece, can totally change the qualities of the finished project. The Suffolk yarn is natural with minimal processing (see earlier posts for detail on how yarn is created). These socks will last for years and they clean easily.

playing with the dye, being creative with color

A word (or two) about Superwash yarn:

Superwash is a chemical process. The purpose of the process is to remove or alter the outer “scales” on the strand of fiber. It is the microscopic scales on each fiber of wool that, with heat and agitation, bind together, causing wool to “felt”. The Superwash process uses harsh chemicals, more water and creates a waste product that is definitely not eco-friendly and is often referred to as toxic. 

A word on sock construction.

My basic “perfectly fitting sock” formula.  I knit the socks with undyed yarn. I had decided to dye the finished sock. This technique allows for a creatively colored sock. I used commercial acid dye which was “set” with citric acid and steam heat.

sweater

Committing to the Sweater

A sweater is a big project. It takes time. So I enter the process slowly. I decide on the parameters of the sweater: pullover or cardigan? Will it have color work or texture or both? What technique have I never done before?  Most importantly what will make it a, relatively, quick knit?

I want a pullover. I start looking at patterns in books and magazines. I browse patterns in ravelry and there are many sweaters I like but either the yarn is fingering (that will take forever) or there is too much colorwork (colorwork slows my knitting time down). I do not see any pattern that calls out to me. 

 I have an old sweater that I love to bits because of how it fits; oversized and sleeves long enough to roll up but I never really liked the v-neck. So I measure this sweater, every dimension very carefully and create a diagram with all the measurements noted. 

I have been swatching a new yarn. I asked the mill to experiment with the polypay fiber I left there and create a 3 ply fingering and a 3 ply worsted. I had been swatching the worsted polypay and I was impressed by how the yarn knit up. I obtained a worsted gauge with both a US 8 and a US7. The main difference was that the fabric created with the US 8 was just a tad more firm. The US 7 created a fabric with more body and when blocked, it was lovely.

I still have not found a pattern to suit my vision and my lovely 3 ply worsted. I decided to create my own sweater based on my swatch and the description of a yoke sweater in “Knitting without Tears” by Elizabeth Zimmerman. The recipe she lays out is bottom up, uses steeks for the armholes (I have never done steeks, it is time to learn) and a simple yoke that I can finish with a crew neck or boat neck or whatever I think of when I reach that point. 

I used a provisional cast on. The last step will be to go back and knit a folded hem. I decided to place a cable going up the front and a cable up the back. There will be lots of stockinette, which knits up quickly. 

I am committed. I love an adventure.

beginning of sweater, bottom up, green yarn is provisional cast on